pedal promise

Hello we are Matt and Jasi. We are cycling from Jasi's hometown in Switzerland to Matt's hometown in Australia. Currently in Laos.

Georgia

Looking Back on 8 Months of Bike Touring

bike tourWe have been on the road for eight months now. We started our trip on the 9th of July at the house of Jasis parents in Wattenwil, Switzerland with the aim to reach Matts parents house in Cobden, Australia by bicycle. The distance we estimated to cycle was around 25,000km and we thought it will take us 18 months (50km per day). We set ourselves a budget of 50 US$ per day per person, we knew that it would probably be too much, but we wanted to be prepared for any case.

So far:

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  • 8 months of cycling
  • 7,700 km
  • 13 countries
  • 10,000 US$ for the both of us
To go:
  • 10 months of cycling
  • 10,000 km (We now think we will cover less than 25’000km in total and enjoy more time off the bikes in places we really love. There is no need to rush.)
  • 10 countries

Things we have learnt on the road

Self-belief

Time and time again, we find ourselves in small ‘oh-shit’-situations. Time and time again, we find a way through these moments. We

have developed a real belief between us, and in these moments, we really work together. We now talk back through these moments as some of our most loved memories of the trip and make a point to ourselves very often that we must enjoy ‘oh-shit’-moments more and more.

No matter how long, steep or difficult it seems, you can do it. Step by step, pedal stroke after pedal stroke. Cycling from Switzerland to Australia sounded impossible before we started. Whenever I told someone about our plans I placed a “maybe” and a “we will just see how far we get” into the story. I knew that people would laugh about our plans because they did not really seem realistic.
The way to Australia does still seem long to us, but so does the way from Switzerland to India and we did that, right? Km for km, day for day and then, all of a sudden you get there.
This makes us think that in general in our lives, we were too scared of big projects. I wanted to study photography when I graduated high school, but I was too scared that I wouldn’t be talented enough and would never be able to make money of it. Now I think I would have succeeded if I really wanted.

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Patience

Staying patient is perhaps the most important skill to hold tight when meeting people on the road. You may have just been stopped by the 10th person that day requesting a selfie, or you might find yourself being taught by a hotel manager how to correctly ride your own bike, but the moment you lose your patience is the moment you stop making friends and stop receiving help from others. The selfie could be shown to all his family and friends with a big smile and the hotel manager might just be an Olympic cyclist, you never know. That moment of patience has helped us so many times and has also shown us how lonely the road is when you lose patience.

Don’t believe everything you read

Yet again Iran, has been one of the richest learning experiences on this trip. Entering Iran, we felt nervous and to be honest a little scared. Our newspapers had only ever portrayed Iran as a dangerous and troubled country. After leaving Iran, we were so thankful and our whole world perspective altered from the kindness of these people. The presence of media in so many forms through our daily lives built the fear we once had for the people of Iran. Know the source of what you read or hear and never be afraid to question it!

My god, the possibilities

Before we decided to bicycle tour around the world, I had only once  heard about bicycle touring, and when I did hear it, I thought it was crazy. 8 months later, the idea of getting on my bike tomorrow and cycling 60-70 km through the chaos of India dealing with language barriers and chasing monkeys almost seems normal. All of us forget too quickly the brave steps we once took to get where we are. I hope that when we finish this journey, that we remind ourselves of the accomplishment and be brave enough to go try, see, do whatever we dream.

Trust

Have trust in people. Whenever we had a problem on this trip, someone came around the next corner and helped us. At times, the help we received further complicated the situation but most importantly, we were no longer alone. Together with complete strangers we found average solutions building extraordinary memories and friendships. We have built up a strong trust now, that whatever happens, we will find a way through.

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But never trust locals with distances

This was a hard one to learn for me, being Swiss it is in my nature to be very exact and correct about numbers. On this trip, it has never happened, that we asked a local how far it was to the next town and they gave us an accurate answer. Whenever someone says 5km, we now know that it could be anything between 10-50km. Still nice to know we were heading in the right direction.

Highlights

  • Picnic invites from Iranian families.
  • Downhills! If you are having a shit day, catch a bus with your bike to the top of a hill, enjoy!
  • Wild camping on a quiet lake in the Georgian mountains.
  • Friends visiting us in Bulgaria and India. That was awesome guys!
  • Riding around Dubai downtown in a convertible.
  • Pomegranate feasts in Iran.
  • Arriving on the Black Sea after riding through Europe for three months.
  • Swimming in the holy Ganges in India.
  • Italy’s food and ice-creams.
  • Taking the headscarf off after riding through Iran for two months.
  • Ferry crossing over the black sea.
  • Everyday freedom.
  • Holi color festival in India.
  • Getting to know hospitality on a whole other level than we could have ever imagined.

Difficulties

  • Going to bed without a shower when we wild camp.
  • Sometimes we can’t find any hotel when it gets dark and we must keep going until we find one.
  • The hassle of organizing things when traveling (like post office closed, no police office to extend visa, booking flights over weak wifi).
  • Constantly having to say goodbye to all the lovely people we meet.
  • Missing home, our families and friends.
  • Physical challenge on the hills and the long unspectacular stretches that we sometimes had to cover.

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Journey’s Impact on our relationship

Before this trip, we had a long-distance relationship. One of the reasons we wanted to go on this bike journey was, that we can live together, even if it is only in a tent.
When we started, we were excited to finally be together without having to say goodbye after a week or two. Our expectations were high as we have been dreaming about our bicycle trip for over one year before departure. Against our expectations, we had a bit of a tough time in the first four weeks. We were constantly stressed with camping, getting enough kms done for the day, writing good blog posts, looking adventurous on social media and processing all these new things we saw, felt and learnt.
And then, in our fifth week on the bikes in Croatia, we suddenly clicked. We learnt how to work as a team. Matt learnt how to deal with hangry Jasi and Jasi learnt to deal with waiting for Matt to get ready in the mornings. Everything got smooth from then on and we only had very few and little arguments ever since.
We went through the best days and the worst days on the road together. We have cried of happiness and cried of frustration together and it all got us closer together and made our relationship stronger.

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Future plans

Our time in India will soon come to an end. We will cross over to Nepal in about a week. In Nepal we are going to meet up with friends for trekking in the Himalayas. I can’t even start to tell you how excited we are. Best friends, trekking, beers, delicious food and adventure, bring it on!
The only problem we have in Nepal is, that we can’t leave the country over land borders once we’ve entered. We can’t enter India again because we wouldn’t get another eVisa and we can’t enter China as it is impossible to get a Chinese visa for bike tourers at the moment. These are the only two countries that border Nepal, so we have to take a flight out of Nepal. We decided to fly from Kathmandu, Nepal to Mandalay, Myanmar and continue our cycle tour there.
From Myanmar we plan to cycle a big loop through Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia before we enter Thailand. Once in Thailand we will cycle southwards. In Malaysia we plan to meet up with friends again to spend one week on an island somewhere in turquoise waters.
From Malaysia, our bike tour will continue to Singapore and then via ferry to Bali. Bali will mark the end of our time in Asia. From there we will take a (hopefully cheap) flight to Broome or Perth on Australia’s West Coast. We both can’t imagine how excited we will be when our plane finally lands in Australia. We will then cycle down the West Coast and maybe take a train through the desert stretch between Perth and Adelaide as it will be summer in Australia and bloody hot.
We hope to arrive at Matts parent’s house in Cobden, Victoria just before Christmas 2018.

Things we plan to do differently in our real life after the trip

Adventure is everywhere

We found little adventures in every country that we have traveled. So we assume, there has to be little adventures waiting for us in Switzerland and Australia too. By adventure we mean little spontaneous things that make us fall out of our comfort zone and daily routine. Here the things we plan to do more often:

  • Help, like really help a tourist or someone in need, we already owe so many people!
  • Explore our own cities sights and events. Be a tourist in our own town.
  • Ride our bikes or walk when needed, the world has too much traffic.
  • Quality not quantity. Buy quality sustainable goods, the world has too much trash on it.
  • Recycle and recycle again, be the change, others (like the whole country of India) will follow eventually.
  • Reduce our meat intake. We have been vegetarians for two months in India as we were too afraid to get sick from the meat and we haven’t missed meat once!
  • Step out of social comfort zones, start a conversation with that guy you see on the bus every morning.
  • Leaving time free for doing absolutely nothing, relax the mind.
  • Brain train, keep learning and trying new things.
georgia
Enjoy normal stuff more

On this trip we realized, how valuable dinner nights with our families, drinks out with our friends, good coffees in the morning and clean bed sheets are. We hope we will remember how much we missed these things on the trip and value them more for the rest of our lives.

Follow our aims in life

The one thing we really learnt from all the travelers and locals we met, is: If you want something in life, you have to pursue it. Almost everything is possible once you made the decision and start working towards it. Most people have around 80 years on this earth, right? You can decide what you want to do with these 80 years. Of course, there are boundaries, but we have realized how extremely fortunate we are, that we have been born in Australia and Switzerland. We are well educated and can be pretty confident, that no matter what decisions we make in our lives, we will most likely not end up homeless or starve to death. So, let’s be thankful for all the opportunities we have by just our nationality and bloody take them. After this trip we both want to be brave and start directing our working careers to where we want to take them.

What will happen after the trip?

Will we continue cycling in South America? Will we stay in Australia and search for work? Will we go back to Switzerland? Or maybe move to Dubai for a year? For now, we don’t really know yet.

Talk to you soon
Matt and Jasi

bike touring

Bicycle touring Video: Georgia and Azerbaijan

In this video you can see how we crossed the black sea by cargo ship and disembarked to green and fertile Georgia. We tackled mountain passes and camped aside alpine lakes. Heading east to Azerbaijan we dodged cows and were chased by the break of summer storms. Continued south into Azerbaijan on route to the bright lights of Baku, the capital. Then finally to a small town on the edge of Iran to skip rocks with local boys on the Caspian Sea.

The song “If I ever leave this world alive” by Flogging Molly is my father’s favourite song.
My dad has been an incredible inspiration for me to simply do whatever I wanted in life. 30 years ago, when he was my age, he and mum considered buying a dairy farm. The milk price was very low, and they were strongly advised to wait until the market recovers before buying.

He bought the farm anyway because that was what he wanted to do. He and mum shed blood, sweat and tears in the early years, doing what they wanted. Dad is now a very successful dairy farmer and more importantly he is happy and still loves it.

There may never be a perfect time to do that project of yours, start that hobby or take that course, but for me, now was always going to be better than tomorrow to start this trip. Find your own little spark of inspiration, let it catch and don’t wait!

Love
Matt and Jasi

Our computer broke down

Trinity Church

Sad news: We had to bury our Mac book. This is why we haven’t written anything lately. Obviously we have to buy a new notebook if we want to continue with this blog. If anyone has a good tip for a cheap, little, robust notebook, let us know.

We only spent two days on our bikes in the last two weeks, so this is going to be a very short blog entry (written on a shitty hostel computer with an even shittier Russian keyboard that makes me rewrite every second word I type, yey).

Kazbegi

We took a big brake from bike riding in Tbilisi as we had to wait for our Iranian visas to be processed. The wait gave us the opportunity to explore some places high up in Georgia’s mountains that we would not cycle to. We took a minibus ride up to Kazbegi to see the famous Trinity Church. The gorgeous church is located on a little hill surrounded by an impressive mountain range. Up in Kazbegi we did some hiking, saw the first few snow flakes of the year, wore our long sleeve merino base layers for the first time on this trip and drank some Georgian Chacha-Schnapps to keep us warm.

SignagiAfter Kazbegi we went back to our friendly Warm Showers host (a network like Couch Surfing but for cyclists) in Tbilisi. Beka our host was wonderful and it was so great to stay with a fellow bicycle tourer, that understands that our tired bodies sometimes just need food, rest and a hot shower. Back in the city we enjoyed our life as normal non-cyclist tourists and did all the things we miss in our bike-tent-life: Good cappuccinos, shopping, a bit of spa in the sulfur baths, taking buses everywhere, eating out at beautiful restaurants and long sleep ins. Two days ago we finally got our passports with our Iranian Visas stamped and received a warm welcome from the embassy officials.

Only two days on the road again we are already right back into the adventure. Yesterday we got a bit unlucky with finding a place to sleep, here’s the story: First we got invited into a dodgy house that almost fell apart, it was only 5 pm so we rode on. Then a family tried to rip us off for using their garden to pitch our tent, we rode on. Next we found the perfect wild camping spot, a van stopped and told us there are wolfs in this area, it got dark and we rode on. After that we found a cute restaurant/hotel, went in and found out the whole place was rent by Dunkin’ Donuts Tbilisi. The Dunkin’ Donuts boss refused to even let us pitch our tent in the hotel’s garden. By then it was very dark and the road was still busy without streetlights. I almost cried but there was not much we could do so we rode on. Finally we stopped at a restaurant where some guests bought dinner for us and the restaurant offered us their shed to pitch our tent. Heaven.

tentWith fond memories of Georgia and excitement for the road ahead, we will cross the border to Azerbaijan tomorrow. We have no idea what awaits us in Azerbaijan. Only one thing is certain: We won’t eat at Dunkin’ Donuts. Take that.

Talk to you soon, hopefully from our new laptop with a reasonable keyboard.
Matt and Jasi

Bike touring the southern mountains of Georgia

After an incredible trip across the Black Sea from Bulgaria, for us, the unknown of Georgia awaited. We were well rested, full of stale bread and mountains of meat from the ship. We disembarked to a new world, lush green dense jungle like hills, food considerably spicier and once again warm smiling faces. The Georgian mountains awaited and we were ready!

We finally said our goodbyes to our 8 new friends we met upon the ship and promised to try and meet up in Tblisi, the capital. We then rode southwards along the Black Sea to the bustling city of Batumi.

The road from Poti to Batumi was madness. Cars overtook on double solid white lines, trucks swerving for potholes all the whilst cows stood in the middle of the road. The Georgian cows rule over all and stand oblivious to the whizzing traffic. Unfortunately our bikes are well down on the traffic food chain, so it was a very tense 50km to Batumi.

The fun continued in Batumi. As we rode to our hotel for the night, we became quite aware of the cultural and traffic changes. The use of the horn is key for Georgian commuters. Almost every car that passes gives a honk to us. We have been told that this is simply saying hello. A friendly gesture, but in the mix of a thousand vehicles, navigating enormous roundabouts and roadworks, the blasting honks can be testing.

As ever, bike touring normally offers you two options when planning your route. The mountainous, less traffic route, or the lowlands crazy traffic option. As our bike horns weren’t loud enough to compete we headed for the southern mountain ranges.

Jasi was finding herself attracting more attention than she anticipated here. On one occasion a man driving a truck loaded with hay, slammed on the handbrake and excitedly jumped out to take a photo with us. I assumed the photo would include myself, and as I parked my bike, I looked up to see the selfie taking place without me. the man then dashed happily back into his truck and continued on. Must be quicker next time.

Our first mountain pass was to be Groderdzi pass at 2000m. We were 1300m into the climb when two men stopped and asked us for a lift over the pass. The conversation involved only hand gestures and their hopeful smiles that we would accept. The two men were brother in-laws, one with 4 children and the other with 3, at least that is what we deciphered from the hand signals. They had caught Jasi and I at a weak point, and as the road was the worst we had encountered for the journey and as we had still 700 m to climb, we gave in and accepted. This was to be one of our best decision yet.

Our bikes were quickly hoisted ontothe back of the truck. We set to work securing the bikes with hay band. As I tied my farm boy knots, the Georgian man quickly knocked away my inadequate skills and twinkled his fingers to produce a sturdy knot.

We were now on our way, Jasi in the front cabin with the two men and myself on the back clinging on for dear life holding onto the bikes. What an adventure this was, lurching left and right through enormous potholes, steep hairpin bends, meeting hay trucks through narrow passes feeling as if they could fall upon me, this had it all!

As we neared the 2000m pass, we came to a stop. I could hear the radio being turned up to what sounded a traditional Georgian song. Then suddenly, the door flew open and the elder of the two men began dancing in the middle of the road. What a dance it was! He was smiling from ear to ear as we clapped to the beat, twirling and hoping and finishing with a kiss blown to Jasi. As quick as the dancing started, it had finished. With a loud crunch of gears we lurched into motion, heading for the pass.

After the pass, the landscape changed to dry and arid however the people remained so hospitable. On one occasion we were cycling past what looked like a town hall when we were invited in to sit and eat with the family. The feast was enormous, approximately 100 people had eaten here and now we were told to fill our bellies. The feast was in remembrance of a lady who passed 40 days ago. A tradition here in Georgia. As what was obviously a difficult day for these people, to invite us in and offer us food and smiles was a very humbling experience. We shook hands with the extended family and were waved goodbye as if we were friends of the family.

The next 24 hours for Jasi and I was one of the most eventful of the trip. We arrived in the small town of Akhalkalaki and as a stormed approached we decided it was best to finish here for the day. The very first man we spoke to offered to host us. He spoke a mix of German and English and was very excited to have us. From here it all went downhill. We stopped at a supermarket to get supplies for the night. He insisted on 5 beers and we got some yoghurt, we payed for everything but thought that this was a reasonable deal for hosting us. He led us to his home which was extremely dirty, smelling fowl and covered in right wing extremist posters.

The mood then changed. After a brief chat he explained that he was a radical Christian and that all muslims should be killed. Then he did the unthinkable, he gave us the Hitler salute and cracked open his first beer to the cheers of “Arbeit macht frei” (“Work sets you free” the slogan Nazism had upon the entrance gates of most concentration camps during WW2). This man was indeed a Neo-Nazi. As soon as the man left the room, Jasi and I packed our bags and left. He was quite annoyed with this. We decided to ride to the next hotel, camping, patch of grass, anywhere away from this man.

The following day we headed for the beautiful alpine lake Paravani. We were within 10km of the lake when again, two men, brothers, gave us directions to their home and invited us for afternoon coffee. A little tentative after our last experience, we accepted. We pedalled 6km to their home and found them waiting for us. What a special couple of hours it was. We were introduced to the entire family. Three brothers and their families lived in the small town and had all arrived for an afternoon snack and coffee.

One of the ladies spoke a little German so we were able to create conversation to all. We were the special guests of the family, they gave us food, coffee, Vodka and more food for the road. I exchanged Skype addresses with one of the brothers who didn’t speak a word of English. He strongly insisted that we must Skype his family when we finish our travels. The grandchildren of the families were then piled onto Jasi for a photo, a must. They offered to host us for the night, but we had our heart set on camping beside lake Paravani so we declined jumped (a little wobbly from the Vodka) on our bike and they waved goodbye until we were out of sight.

 

Our heartfelt decision to pedal on proved to be genius. We had it finally made it to the beautiful Lake Paravani at an altitude of 2000m and the views did not disappoint. A small monastery lay at the edge of the lake and we were too curious not to see more. We pedalled down the track that led to the monastery and met three monks with big smiles. They offered us for more coffee. After coffee and wine, we asked if we could pitch our tent nearby the monastery overlooking the lake, they insisted! It was our most beautiful camp spot yet and made the climb to the top all the worthwhile.

camping

What goes up, must come down. The reward of the many days climbing the alps was here. There are few better moments for us bike tourers. But on this descent to Tbilisi it had it all. Beautiful views, a strong storm chasing, dogs emerging from nowhere nipping at our heels and km’s of down breeze. Downhill, warmer weather and Tbilisi awaited us.

We are now resting up in Tbilisi and will make a longer stop in order to hopefully process our Iranian visa at the embassy. Meanwhile, we will meet up with a few of our new friends we met upon the ship. We also plan to give the bikes themselves a rest and take a two or three day trip by bus to the Northern mountains ranges to the region of Kasbegi. Here we will finally lay eyes upon the Gergeti Trinity Church!

Jasi and Matt

Over the Black Sea by ferry

ferry Bulgaria to Georgia
Ahoy. To get from Bulgaria to Varna we had three options: Overland Turkey, overland Romania, Moldova, Ukraine and Russia or straight over the Black Sea by ferry. We chose the third option. We researched the ferry connection before we started the trip. On the internet it is hard to find reliable, up to date information about it. The only two things we knew were that there is a ferry from Varna, Bulgaria to Poti in Georgia and that there is no fixed schedule.

It wasn’t until we reached Varna that we found out more about the sea crossing. The owner of our hostel in Varna helped us to contact the ferry company. After a few confusing phone calls we found out that the ferry runs once a week, takes about 55 hours and that it is not possible to make ticket reservations. The tickets cost around 100 Euro per person including a cabin and three meals a day. The guy on the phone told us in broken English to be at the port before 09.00 am on the day of departure.

As the man said, we rolled our bikes through the front gate of the port a bit before 09.00 am on the 7th of September. Behind the gate at the side of the street we encountered a group of travellers sitting in the morning sun. After talking for a few minutes we found out that each one of us has had the same confusing phone calls with the guy from the ferry company. Soon an old black car arrived. A man with greasy black hair, glasses and a phone pressed between his shoulder and ear got out. He looked very busy and stressed, we were sure that this has to be the guy we have all been phoning over the last few days. After he finished his phone call he quickly told us to meet him on the second floor of a nearby building in an hour. Before he finished the sentence his phone rang again and he drove of.

After a complicated ticket purchase in a sketchy office on the second floor we found out that the ship wasn’t going to leave for another five hours. We watched how they loaded the huge cargo ship, played cards, snacked, drank coffee from the coffee vending machine and got to know our fellow passengers. In total there were 10 passengers: Aline and Lukas from Germany who travel around Europe by a 1978 bus for one year, Jésus, who is kind of a all time traveller/freelance Spanish proofreader, Gilles and Antonin, who are travelling by bike from France, Jakob und Hannah, a young couple from Berlin and Paul from Cologne. Poor penniless Paul didn’t have enough cash to buy the ferry ticket and didn’t know that we get three meals per day on the boat. He had a lot of food and the rest of us had some spare Bulgarian bills and coins, the perfect match.

Boat

Me, Jésus, Jakob, Antonin, Gilles, Aline, Lukas, Hannah, Paul and Matt

Once we were on the boat we observed the crew pulling up big cardboard boxes from the port. We guessed the packages must be filled with food and were amused when we saw them unwrapping cigarets and booze. There was more booze than all passengers and the crew could consume over the space of 55 hours! How exciting.

The ship is predominantly a cargo ship, with enough room for a few persistent travellers on the side. The ship is powered by two 4000 hp motors and is run from purely crude oil. It burns 25 cubic metres of crude oil per hour, Incredible! Electricity is powered primarily by a 1 Megawatt generator, and is Norwegian built in 1978 (everybody who knows me will probably have noticed that Matt wrote this paragraph, haha).

Ship Bulgaria Georgia

On the first evening we were sitting on the deck, watching the sunset. After knowing each other for 12 hours it already felt like a group of old friends. Non of us 10 passengers has ever been in Georgia. We were all connected by this magic feeling of embarking into the unknown.

Boat

Matt and I were tired so we went back into our cabin early that night. Soon I realised that I was too excited to sleep so I went for a stroll around the boat. Our cargo ship wasn’t lit up like a modern passenger ferry, it was all dark and quiet. As I came around a corner a saw Gill and Antonin smoking in the light of an open cabin window. The tall hairy man in the cabin introduced himself as Vadili and offered me an ice tea. I accepted and as I took a sip. Strangest ice tea I have ever tasted, I thought to myself and looked up to Vadilli. With a big grin on his face he said: “Maybe also some Vodka in there”. We all laughed and had a second glass. Vadilli has been working on this ship for seven years. There are two crews for the boat and they rotate once a month. For Vadilli this means one month straight of work and then one month recovery.

Black Sea crossing

All of a sudden we heard someone shouting something about a super moon. We went to the front of the ship and were absolutely blown away by the huge orange glowing circle that rised at the horizon. It was the first moon rise I have ever seen in my life and it would be followed by two more over the next two days on the boat.

Moon rise

In the 70 hours on a boat there was not really that much to do. The three days on the ship were structured by sunrise, breakfast, dolphin chasing, lunch, swimming in the little sea water pool on the upper deck, dinner, playing cards, sun set, listening to Aline and Lukas who playing the guitar, moon rise, some beers and then sleep. There was nothing else. No wifi. Nowhere to go. Nothing to see except waterline horizon in every direction. It is crazy what a situation like this does to a group of ten people who haven’t known each other before.

Black Sea

When we docked in the port of Poti in Georgia we were all a bit nostalgic and agreed that we could easily spend some more days on the ship. We decided to travel to the city centre all together. Aline and Lukas gave the backpackers a lift and us cyclists followed them by bike. We exchanged phone numbers, hugged and promised to try and all meet up in Tblitsi, Georgias capital city again.

dolphin

It would have been cheaper to fly from Bulgaria to Georgia or take a two day bus through Turkey, but the difficulty with transporting bikes in planes or buses led us to cross the Black Sea by ship. It seems as if sometimes the longer, less obvious way has more to offer. So far, this has certainly been one of the most unique, mentally refreshing and simply beautiful experiences we have had.

Matt and Jasi

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